Please help preserve our Rock Climbs and Protect Your Life in
The Garden of the Gods and at Red Rock Canyon
Sandstone is Fragile When Wet
Unfamiliarity with properties of our sandstone is leading to premature erosion of the rock, degradation of some of the best routes, and potential for injury in this beautiful, world-renowned area.
Because it is porous, sandstone acts as a sponge and, like a sponge, the interior can be moist even with a dry surface. Water dissolves the salt between sand grains, causing sub-surface mush. Wet rock can lose two thirds of its strength. Because the bone dry surface many be hiding moisture less than a millimeter below, the rock’s fragility is hard to read.
It is no wonder that unnatural scoops have appeared on many of the local climbs, in some cases turning challenging friction climbs into rock staircases.
It is easy to observe the unnatural formation of steps on Silver Spoon, Montezuma’s Tower, and the south ridge of White Spire in The Garden. Other climbs in Red Rock Canyon and the Garden of the Gods feature scars ranging from large blocks to numerous damaged or missing hand and foot holds.
Climbing on wet sandstone in The Garden has been linked to at least one fatality.
Unfamiliarity with properties of our sandstone is leading to premature erosion of the rock, degradation of some of the best routes, and potential for injury in this beautiful, world-renowned area.
Because it is porous, sandstone acts as a sponge and, like a sponge, the interior can be moist even with a dry surface. Water dissolves the salt between sand grains, causing sub-surface mush. Wet rock can lose two thirds of its strength. Because the bone dry surface many be hiding moisture less than a millimeter below, the rock’s fragility is hard to read.
It is no wonder that unnatural scoops have appeared on many of the local climbs, in some cases turning challenging friction climbs into rock staircases.
It is easy to observe the unnatural formation of steps on Silver Spoon, Montezuma’s Tower, and the south ridge of White Spire in The Garden. Other climbs in Red Rock Canyon and the Garden of the Gods feature scars ranging from large blocks to numerous damaged or missing hand and foot holds.
Climbing on wet sandstone in The Garden has been linked to at least one fatality.
How to decide if it is OK to climb:
•Saturated ground and/or puddles in the parking lot or trails means the rock is likely too wet to climb.
•Even one wet area on a route is a warning that it should not be climbed.
•48 hours or more may be needed to dry after rain or snowmelt.
•Look behind flakes and the tops of ledges that collect sand. Is the rock darkened in these areas? Is is damp? Dig into the loose sand on ledges. Is it damp? If yes, to any of these, this route needs more time to dry.
Alternatives to Sandstone:
A rock gym, North Cheyenne Canyon, 11 Mile Canyon, Castlewood Canyon State Park, and Shelf Road.
Factors that affect drying:
1) A very light rain lasting hours with little accumulation will saturate the rock more than a 20-minute torrent. Wet snow or snowfall that stays on the rock for days have high impact.
2) High humidity
3) No wind
4) Overcast skies
•Saturated ground and/or puddles in the parking lot or trails means the rock is likely too wet to climb.
•Even one wet area on a route is a warning that it should not be climbed.
•48 hours or more may be needed to dry after rain or snowmelt.
•Look behind flakes and the tops of ledges that collect sand. Is the rock darkened in these areas? Is is damp? Dig into the loose sand on ledges. Is it damp? If yes, to any of these, this route needs more time to dry.
Alternatives to Sandstone:
A rock gym, North Cheyenne Canyon, 11 Mile Canyon, Castlewood Canyon State Park, and Shelf Road.
Factors that affect drying:
1) A very light rain lasting hours with little accumulation will saturate the rock more than a 20-minute torrent. Wet snow or snowfall that stays on the rock for days have high impact.
2) High humidity
3) No wind
4) Overcast skies
